Oceanography is a very important discipline for understanding the oceans, which are essential for all life on Earth and cover the majority of the Earth’s surface.

“Oceanography is extremely multidisciplinary, covering the physics, chemistry, geology and biology of the world’s oceans. No understanding of Earth’s climate or the chemical cycles essential to life is complete without the insights of oceanography.”

I started surfing when I was 12 years old and I have been obsessed with ocean waves ever since. Ever since I first started school I wanted to learn the “birth, life, and death of an oceanic swell.” I started with Meteorology so I could understand the birth of the swell; that is, the storms that create the swells. I am now studying Physical Oceanography to understand swell propagation as well as the surf zone dynamics.

This past semester I wasn’t able to continue with school due to financial concerns. I have used all my student loans allowed, l and currently looking for grants. Also, I have a Go Fund Me Page, or can use paypal (my PayPal is barrjohnm@gmail.com) or email through this form to send a donation.  Anything will help, even $1.00!

When I started school I was 30 years old, and I was completely illiterate! It took many years just to get to college status, but I am proud of all my accomplishments as when I first started school 5/1=5 really confused me, and now I understand partial differential equation (PDEs) and in fact my undergraduate degree of Atmospheric Sciences (Meteorology) pretty much including PDEs all thoroughout the degree, below is a common equation in Meteorology:

If you have ever seen warm or cold fronts on a weather map this is the equation for it. Really cool, right?

As, I said above I have been obsessed with ocean waves ever since I started surfing. My first step was to discover how the waves were formed and now I am studying what happens when they leave their original area.  I will finally study what happens when the ocean waves enter the beach zone and become surf, which will no doubt be the most difficult part of my study.

I am very dedicated to getting my P.h.D in Physical Oceanography at SOEST at the University of Hawaii, Money is the only think standing in my way. I am study by myself at home which is challenging since I just finished my undergraduate degree.

Here are my thoughts on my subset of Physical Oceanography:

Physical Oceanographers

Physical oceanographers apply theory and observation to study the circulation of oceans. As heat, salt, and other dissolved chemicals move through the oceans and into lakes and rivers, these scientists are able to track this movement. They also study tides and waves to see how these things affect the atmosphere and nearby ecosystems. Once the data is collected, physical oceanographers may then build computer simulations that mimic the movement of the ocean.

Job responsibilities of a physical oceanographer include:

  • attempting to lessen the impact on ocean life of pollution carried by currents
  • testing water and soil samples for pH balances
  • studying the sea ice and polar ice sheets to understand the distribution of these features and attempt to preserve them
  • ensuring a balance between the human use of ocean resources and conservation