For surfers, finding the 'sweet spot,' the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge. Now a researcher has found the exact location on the wave where a surfer gains the greatest speed to get the best ride. "For surfers, finding the "sweet spot,"
Physical oceanography is a sub-discipline of oceanography that involves the study of waves, tides, and currents; the ocean-atmosphere relationship that influences weather and climate; and the transmission of light and sound in the oceans. The scales of these processes range through spatial scales from centimeters to global and time scales from seconds to centuries.