Physical oceanography is a sub-discipline of oceanography that involves the study of waves, tides, and currents; the ocean-atmosphere relationship that influences weather and climate; and the transmission of light and sound in the oceans. The scales of these processes range through spatial scales from centimeters to global and time scales from seconds to centuries.
Geological Oceanographers use geophysical technologies to examine the makeup of the ocean bedrock and the natural processes of rock movement. Often times referred to as and Geophysical Oceanographers as well. "Geological Oceanographer's also study the ocean floor, which is very important in surfing!" What Does a
Chemical Oceanographers examine the chemical composition of the oceans. They examine the acidity or otherwise and attempt to understand how the ecology, biology and other elements of an ocean might change based on the shifting chemical profile. "They are essentially oceanographers, but rather than studying the ecology, biological life and
Biological Oceanographer study the makeup of our oceans. Like Marine Biologists, they will look at the life forms and ecosystem, but they will also look at how external factors impact on life forms in the ocean bodies. "Biological Oceanographers study life in the world's oceans." What
Of all the iconic breaks along the North Shore of Oahu, Haleiwa is perhaps the most performance-friendly wave on the Seven-Mile Miracle during big swells. When it starts maxing out and washing through at a lot of the other reef breaks during the North Pacific winter, Haleiwa will often be the one spot that’s still
Professor Walter Munk, ‘The Grandfather of Wave Forecasting’, arguably the greatest oceanographer who ever lived, passed away on February 8 2019 at the age of 101. You may not have heard of Walter Munk. That is, unless you have ever read anything about surf science or wave forecasting, in which case his name will be
Ocean engineering provides an important link between the other oceanographic disciplines such as marine biology, chemical and physical oceanography, and marine geology and geophysics. "Just as the interests of oceanographers have driven the demand for the design skills and technical expertise of ocean engineers, the innovations in instrumentation and equipment