The Aloha state of Hawaii is located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, approximately 2,600 miles west of California. "As the only state in the United States that is an island, Hawaii is unquestionably vulnerable to changes in climate " Like many islands across
Oceanography is a very important discipline for understanding the oceans, which are essential for all life on Earth and cover the majority of the Earth's surface. "Oceanography is extremely multidisciplinary, covering the physics, chemistry, geology and biology of the world's oceans. No understanding of Earth's climate or the chemical cycles
One of the great things about surfing is that no two swells are the same. Even though ‘on paper’ they might look exactly the same, in reality they can turn out completely different. "Apart from key parameters such as wave height, period and direction, there are other, more subtle
The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave surfing contest was held at Waimea Bay in 2016. The Eddie Aikau Foundation said this year it is presenting the 2019 The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational with a new format and all-star line-up and invitations to a record number of women to participate.
HOW WAVES ARE AFFECTED BY PERIOD? If you look at a surf forecast you’ll generally see three bits of information. Swell size, swell period, and swell direction. All are important. Most people just focus on swell size, but swell period actually has as much or even more to do with swell size in deciding how
At the moment the wave charts are not looking too epic. However, in about a week’s time things are due to improve as the general situation over the North Pacific changes. "That’s all I can say. Why? Because, the best way to look at the long-term charts is to just
For surfers, finding the 'sweet spot,' the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge. Now a researcher has found the exact location on the wave where a surfer gains the greatest speed to get the best ride. "For surfers, finding the "sweet spot,"
The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water does not actually travel in waves. Waves transmit energy, not water,
The major disciplines of oceanography are geological oceanography, physical oceanography and chemical oceanography. Oceanographers and others involved in these disciplines often work together to unravel the mysteries and unknowns of ocean science. In reading about each of these sub-fields, keep in mind that some of the most important
Physical oceanography is a sub-discipline of oceanography that involves the study of waves, tides, and currents; the ocean-atmosphere relationship that influences weather and climate; and the transmission of light and sound in the oceans. The scales of these processes range through spatial scales from centimeters to global and time scales from seconds to centuries.